Aquí en Oaxaca, there are a multitude of words for what we would call a parade in English. Desfile, comparsa, calenda, convite... (and some more that I am forgetting, for example religious processions and never mind fiesta-specific parades that get their own name, like muerteadas). "Desfile" is the only word I knew before moving. It's a little confusing to know what is what and why.
Last night, we attended the Magna Comparsa for Oaxaca de Juárez'
celebration of Día de Muertos and I think I get a sense of the
difference between a desfile and a comparsa. Compare this foto (not
mine) of the Desfile de Catrinas in CDMX and my foto of the Magna
Comparsa....
and you'll maybe get a sense of one difference: in a comparsa, the (what seems like the) entire barrio or pueblo or familia y amigxs of the organization that sponsors the comparsa element shows up to march in the parade, often after the puppets or the dancers or what have you, but othertimes intermixed (as in my foto). Oh- and in between the visual spectacle and the pueblo walkinga long? Always a banda!!! Drums, a full brass section, LOUD, exuberant playing. Bandas are such an important part of life in Oaxaca and actually feature in calendas, comparsas, desfiles, and convites... Each element in the comparsa has its *own* banda, either from the village or hired specially.
Whereas in a desfile, it seems more organized and only the people
involved in the spectacle part are actually in the parade (at least this
is what it seems like). Everyone else is a spectator.
Last night's comparsa featured plenty of people not
dressed up at all, along with some with their face painted or wearing a
mask or kids wearing a halloween costume, many of the adults with a can
of beer, there was much conviviality and joking about as well as all the
sheer artistry of the giant puppets, stilt-walkers, dancers, catrina
and catrine faces, etc. etc.
I'm not about to claim one is better than the other, just different, I think. And, ultimately, for me: fascinating and deeply humbling to see all the expressions of this ancient fiesta that is día de muertos...
and you'll maybe get a sense of one difference: in a comparsa, the (what seems like the) entire barrio or pueblo or familia y amigxs of the organization that sponsors the comparsa element shows up to march in the parade, often after the puppets or the dancers or what have you, but othertimes intermixed (as in my foto). Oh- and in between the visual spectacle and the pueblo walkinga long? Always a banda!!! Drums, a full brass section, LOUD, exuberant playing. Bandas are such an important part of life in Oaxaca and actually feature in calendas, comparsas, desfiles, and convites... Each element in the comparsa has its *own* banda, either from the village or hired specially.
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| My foto of a similar entry to that in the below foto but this is in the Magna Comparsa, Inicia Oaxaca de Muertos 2018, Oaxaca de Juárez |
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| Foto of the Desfile de Catrinas in CDMX. foto by: Archivo Cuartoscuro; from website Chilango.com |
I'm not about to claim one is better than the other, just different, I think. And, ultimately, for me: fascinating and deeply humbling to see all the expressions of this ancient fiesta that is día de muertos...
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