Life in Oaxaca: two months in

**this post is by Eric**

Life in Oaxaca is beautiful: the colors of the colonial buildings on every street; the green stone of the old buildings and walls (called “cantera”); the fruits and vegetables in the markets; the mountains that ring the city.

Life in Oaxaca is ugly: there’s trash in the streets; people don’t pick up after their dogs; there’s way too much poverty.

Life in Oaxaca is pleasant: the climate is so agreeable—cool in the mornings and evenings, warm in the middle of the day, frequent cool breezes; having ready access to markets with plentiful fresh fruits and veggies; the food, ah, the food.

Life in Oaxaca is unpleasant: the mosquitos (“zancudos”) are far too plentiful and vicious; it’s noisy, whether from barking dogs or belching buses or “Gas Oaxaca” trucks blaring their wares.

Life is easy: high quality food, drink, crafts, clothes are plentiful and cheap.

Life is hard: lots to get used to; nobody has change, ever.  No toilet paper in the toilet.  No drinking water from the faucet.  Little things add up.

Oaxaqueñ@s are friendly.  Mexican people are socialized to be cordial, always, whether it’s passing you on the sidewalk, or welcoming you to their store, shop, restaurant, school.  They may sometimes be a bit reserved at first, but once you get past that, you’re practically family.  I have never yet experienced hostility at being a foreigner (much worse, an American!), or at not knowing what the hell I’m doing (though this happens frequently).

There’s no opposite thing to this—people here are unfailingly friendly and kind and generous.

A few things that ring true on a daily basis: Mexico is rich in its poverty (not sure who said this)—it is still a poor country, with far too many people living at far too close to subsistence level or lower. Corruption is endemic, the government is inept, basic services are lacking. (Our wealth and privilege insulate us from experiencing the worst of this, though it’s obvious to all every day)   But it is rich in culture, rich in cuisine, rich in tradition—areas in which the United States is generally markedly poorer.  These riches are just as evident as its poverty in wealth, in healthy politics, in infrastructure, etc.  And we are so lucky to get to live here and experience the amazing culture of Oaxaca and Mexico.